The Bottom End:
In the beginning
The block comes back
Pistons and Rods
Windage Tray and Cam Timing
The Timing Set
The Eccentric Problem
to the Eccentric Problem
to the Eccentric Problem
Oiling Part 1: Pump and pickup
Oiling Part 2: External Plumbing
The Top End:
The 4V Heads
Putting the Heads On the Block
Installing the Hydraulic Roller
Darryl's Stang Stable
The Top End:
The Hydraulic Roller Conversion Kit
One of the things I wanted to do in this rebuild, was to install a roller
cam. This would be my first roller cam engine. Crane had an intriguing
kit, a hydraulic roller cam. I thought, gee that would be neat, probably
a bit quieter than a mechanical roller set-up. So I bought into it. The
whole assembly consists of the Steel roller camshaft, hydraulic roller
lifters and a "spider" assembly to hold the lifters in place.
I apologize, I forgot to take photos of the cam and a lifter.
||Here, the heads are both in place, and torqued to spec. The cam
has not been re-inserted since removing it after degree'ing it. Again,
they are not painted, but will be before dropping the assembly into
the car. At this point in the build up, things are really starting
to shape up and look like a powerplant.
|The cam gets cleaned with mineral spirits as recommended by Crane.
Afterwards, the am is lubed with regular engine oil. DO NOT use a
moly cam lube on a roller cam, the manufacturer (in this case) said
so. Getting my hands all oily, I put the cam in, using the cam sprocket
as a handle. Be very careful when putting the cam into the block.
You don't want to damage the bearings on the way in. Also note here
in this photo, I have installed the extra thick thrust plate with
the first of two Torrington bearing sets. The screws are countersunck
Torx drive and are torqued to factory specs.
||T is the backside of the cam gear. The Pete Jackson set-up is already
machined to accept the second Torrington bearing set, as illustrated
here. The set consists of two thrust washers and a bearing. Here,
the bearing sits on one washer with the other sitting off to the side
to show the bearing.
|One of the first things that must be done, is the installation of
the "spider" studs. The kit provides two and you must select
two of the four valley holes to install them in. When I experimented
with the different placement and what I thought would provide the
most consistant pressure, I selected the first and third holes from
the front of the block. A "riv-nut" is installed and crushed
to the block. Then a stud is lok-tite'd in place. I let these sit
for two weeks.
||Here, the Hydraulic roller lifters have been installed, the keeper
bars put in place across each set, and the spider positioned over
the studs and keepers. Now, I forgot to take a photo of the lifters,
but I did determine there is a right way and a wrong way to install
them. A small lube hole is located on only one side of the lifter,
and that side must point down so it comes into the oil galley. Otherwise,
the oil must travel around the outside edge, then up into the lifter.
|Here, the locking bar is set into place on top of the "spider".
This bar equalizes the pressure along the spine of the "spider"
so all locking bars stay inplace. You can clearly see here, the selected
first and third holes.
||To tighten the locking bar in place, Crane supplies two nylock nuts.
VERY IMPORTANT: The studs were originally installed to a depth of
one half inch. Any further and the stud WILL COLLIDE WITH THE CAM.
This can be visually verified by looking down the cam bore (without
the cam) and seeing where this stud is located. You must HOLD the
stud in place with a hex wrench to keep it from turning further into
the block when you tighten the nut on the locking bar. Tighten "snugly",
that's the spec they gave me. : )