Ford 351C (Cleveland), so
named after the foundry where it was produced. Probably the one and
only "bastard" block. It's larger than the 351 Windsor, yet
smaller than the FE series, from 390 to 460. The Cleveland is considered
a "small block", yet weighs in almost as much as a 429. You
want a really good engine stand for this one. The major observable difference
is the cast in block timing cover. Instead of a full cover that goes
around the timing set, the block has been cast such that the timing
set is shrouded by the front of the block and the timing cover is really
no more than a piece of flat sheet metal covering the opening. Don't
get any ideas, that's a pretty special piece of sheet metal, so don't
go making your own. For another car powered by the 351C, visit my Pantera
4V heads and manifold, stock,
cast iron. The 4V system differs from the 2V system in that the ports
are much larger. The 2V heads have port openings on the average you
might on any other head, however, the 4V contains such large openings
you could just about shove a golf ball clear through to the combustion
chamber. Ford was starting to get deeper into the racing end of things
and the 4V heads were the ticket, unfortunately, the gas shortage/paranoia
of the early '70's soon put an end to this powerful combination. 4V
heads for the Cleveland are pricey and difficult to come by. They work
best at higher rpm's and with low gearing. In my application, they don't
really do me a lot of good until around 2,000 rpm, then watch out.
4V Carter AFB 750, oooooh,
such a nice induction system. I've tried Holley and the stock Motorcraft
units, and just keep coming back to the Carter. Also available by Edelbrock,
this carb is very simple and quickly tuneable by the use of easily changed
metering rods. Ever have to go get emissions done on your car??? This
is the way to do it. Change to the leanest rods you can handle without
impeading driveability, get your test, then drop in the old set. The
model I use has an electric choke and is housed under the Ford NASA
RAM AIR hood system found on few Mach I's.
RAM AIR, the fastest way
to get cool air to the carb. Of course, you don't really want to do
that until the engine is up to temperature. The system on this car uses
a dual NASA hood ducted into a larger plenum area then fed directly
to a circular air cleaner mated to the hood with a large rubber gasket.
This is essentially an outgrowth of the "Shaker" hood designs
on earlier Mustangs. The scoops themselves have a vacuum actuated flapper
door that stays closed until a loss of vacuum, as in high speed acceleration,
when the air demand is higher.
Motorsport hydraulic cam
for the Cleveland, 510/536 lift with 292/302 duration I/E. Purchased
from Ford Motorsport direct. This was a very good all around good cam
for this engine. Not too much, not too little. Part Number M-6250-A341,
recommends Lifters M-6500-A301 and Springs M-6513-B221.
CAMSHAFT SPECS (From
label on cam box)
at .050 Lift
Timing is net
(with no lash)
|* ( at .006" Valve Lift pr SAE spec J604
Motorsport Roller Rockers.
These babies are cool. Once you put them on a rig, you sincerly wish
you had glass valve covers. Boy do they look pretty. These definately
save horsepower (that is, give you a few more), save on wear and tear,
and also allow the valve to travel in a more linear path.
Crane valve springs. All
other valve train components are stock.
Headers with glass-packs.
Midas claims it's all street legal, but the police tend to disagree.
Carry the Midas paperwork with you.
Ford Duraspark II electronic ignition.
A personal touch, eliminating that pesky requirement of changing points
every 6 months. Oh yea, and the plugs seem to last a lot longer too,
on the order of about 50,000 miles. Easy swap, just picked up a unit
off an 80 Ford V-8 and dropped it in. I may have had to change distributor
gears, can't remember.
C-6 transmission. Automatic,
not manual. I'm comfortable with it. It moves out well, and the next
rebuild will include some lower 1st gear ratios, from Ford Motorsport
also. With the particular cam combination, I would recommend a higher
stall converter though.
Well, maybe I can get some more pictures up here later.
Check out Les Morris' 71-73