Background
Specifications
The Bottom End:
In the beginning
The block comes back
Pistons and Rods
Windage Tray and Cam Timing
The Timing Set
The Eccentric Problem
First Solution
to the Eccentric Problem
Final Solution
to the Eccentric Problem
Oiling Part 1: Pump and pickup
Oiling Part 2: External Plumbing
The Top End:
The 4V Heads
Putting the Heads On the Block
Installing the Hydraulic Roller
Conversion Kit
The Transmission:
The Case:
Credits:
Links
Darryl's Stang Stable
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The Block and Bottom End:
In The Beginning
I gave up the block, rods and crank to a friend in the Inland Empire
Mustang Club, George Litton, who works at a local machine shop, Evergreen
Engine Exchange. George would be polishing the rods and making sure all
the other things got done. For this project, I purchased a Torque Plate
from Peterson Machine back east, since no machine shop in Spokane had
one. The block was bored and hones with the Torque Plate in place. This
helps provide a much more "true" round hole for the piston to
move in, otherwise the bore is usually somewhat eliptical.
Although not pictured (I didn't have a good "close-up" camera
until later), George performed an engine oiling modification that can
be found in the Ford Performance book, available at most auto speed shops.
The mod inserts oil restrictors in each of the vertical bores that go
to the lifter galley, from the main bearing journal. Geroge did a great
job.
The rotating assembly was taken to a local 351C expert, Rick Monahan,
who balanced everything for us. The crank was turned .010 under and the
appropriate bearings obtained.
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The refurbished block, .030 over, painted & clean |
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I hadn't obtained my new camera yet, so I didn't get any close up
photos of the oiling mods done by George Litton. Here, we see the
crank already in place with the Main Caps in place. A new neoprene
rear main seal was used and oriented in accordance with the factory
manual rear main seal installation instruction. |
This is the reason I decided I needed a new camera. My old one only
has a focal depth of about 4 feet for close-ups, which make shots
like this one turn out fuzzy. The arrow is pointing to a piece of
Plasti-gage that has been torqued under the front main cap, to illustrate
what should be done to each journal to make sure the clearances are
correct. I this case, all main and rod journals came to well within
the factory specs. |
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