351 Cleveland Rebuild

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The Bottom End:

In the beginning
The block comes back
Pistons and Rods
Windage Tray and Cam Timing
The Timing Set
The Eccentric Problem
First Solution to the Eccentric Problem
Final Solution to the Eccentric Problem
Oiling Part 1: Pump and pickup
Oiling Part 2: External Plumbing

The Top End:

The 4V Heads
Putting the Heads On the Block
Installing the Hydraulic Roller Conversion Kit

The Transmission:

The Case:


Darryl's Stang Stable

The Top End:
Installling the Heads

This part is pretty self-explanatory. Checks and measurements were done, it was time to do some assembly.

This is one last look at the flat top pistons going into this engine. I took this one to top dead center, the placed a straightedge across it, and using a set of feeler guages, I measured the quench distance at about .045, give or take a few thousants. From here, it's lube up the cylinders one last time, clean the mating surface and apply the head gasket.
Fel-Pro Perma-Torque head gaskets, never need re-torquing, don't need any sealer, and do a great job. Here, the gasket is layed into place and checked. Make sure to remove all traces of lint and other small fine debris that may be on the gasket. We want a great seal on this baby.
This is one of the cylinder heads placed on the block. They haven't been painted yet, but will later, in black, to match the block. Usually the head shop will paint them, but I usually don't have them do it, since I always paint my engines black. This shot illustrates the "canted valve" arrangement very well.
Okay, technical stuff. The Crane adjustable rocker conversion kit has these guideplates installed as we saw earlier. The instructions tell you to get cap screws to replace the five head bolts on top. This is why. The regular head bolt is too large to clear the guideplate. Now you "could" install the head bolt "before" the guideplate, but then you are always stuck with the head bolt installed, unless you want to remove the guideplate... that you've Lock-tite'd in so it wouldn't come out.
Here is the solution. I simply called Fasteners, Inc. in Spokane, and asked for 1/2-13 (course) x 4-1/2 socket head cap screws. I went ahead and got 20 of them to do all the holes. They fit past the guideplate very nicely, fit agains the head very well, and were a breeze to torque. The heads were torqued in three steps, to factory specs: 55, 75, 105 final. One head down, one to go.

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