| BackgroundSpecifications
 The Bottom End:In the beginningThe block comes back
 Pistons and Rods
 Windage Tray and Cam Timing
 The Timing Set
 The Eccentric Problem
 First Solution 
            to the Eccentric Problem
 Final Solution 
            to the Eccentric Problem
 Oiling Part 1: Pump and pickup
 Oiling Part 2: External Plumbing
 
 The Top End:The 4V HeadsPutting the Heads On the Block
 Installing the Hydraulic Roller 
            Conversion Kit
 
 The Transmission:The Case:
 Credits:LinksDarryl's Stang Stable
 
 | The Top End:Installling the Heads
 
 This part is pretty self-explanatory. Checks and measurements were done, 
        it was time to do some assembly. 
         
          |  | This is one last look at the flat top pistons going into this engine. 
            I took this one to top dead center, the placed a straightedge across 
            it, and using a set of feeler guages, I measured the quench distance 
            at about .045, give or take a few thousants. From here, it's lube 
            up the cylinders one last time, clean the mating surface and apply 
            the head gasket. |   
          | Fel-Pro Perma-Torque head gaskets, never need re-torquing, don't 
            need any sealer, and do a great job. Here, the gasket is layed into 
            place and checked. Make sure to remove all traces of lint and other 
            small fine debris that may be on the gasket. We want a great seal 
            on this baby. |  |   
          |  | This is one of the cylinder heads placed on the block. They haven't 
            been painted yet, but will later, in black, to match the block. Usually 
            the head shop will paint them, but I usually don't have them do it, 
            since I always paint my engines black. This shot illustrates the "canted 
            valve" arrangement very well. |   
          | Okay, technical stuff. The Crane adjustable rocker conversion kit 
            has these guideplates installed as we saw earlier. The instructions 
            tell you to get cap screws to replace the five head bolts on top. 
            This is why. The regular head bolt is too large to clear the guideplate. 
            Now you "could" install the head bolt "before" 
            the guideplate, but then you are always stuck with the head bolt installed, 
            unless you want to remove the guideplate... that you've Lock-tite'd 
            in so it wouldn't come out. |  |   
          |  | Here is the solution. I simply called Fasteners, Inc. in Spokane, 
            and asked for 1/2-13 (course) x 4-1/2 socket head cap screws. I went 
            ahead and got 20 of them to do all the holes. They fit past the guideplate 
            very nicely, fit agains the head very well, and were a breeze to torque. 
            The heads were torqued in three steps, to factory specs: 55, 75, 105 
            final. One head down, one to go. |  |