351 Cleveland Rebuild

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The Bottom End:

In the beginning
The block comes back
Pistons and Rods
Windage Tray and Cam Timing
The Timing Set
The Eccentric Problem
First Solution to the Eccentric Problem
Final Solution to the Eccentric Problem
Oiling Part 1: Pump and pickup
Oiling Part 2: External Plumbing

The Top End:

The 4V Heads
Putting the Heads On the Block
Installing the Hydraulic Roller Conversion Kit

The Transmission:

The Case:


Darryl's Stang Stable

The Block and Bottom End:
Pump and Pickup

There are a few different type pickup screens that came on 351C's. This particular block came with a real great system, a factory baffled oil pan as seen previously, and this shrouded pickup screen. The assembly was removed from the old pump, cleaned thoroughly, and I mean thoroughly, inspected for debris, then cleaned again. Now it was ready for assembly. After talking to many people and the Crane Cams technical support folks, I opted out of the High Volume Ford Motorsport oil pump. I was told by many folks to run a stock oil pump if I was running a roller cam. So I purchased a good stock oil pump and installed this pickup screen to it.

Here is the business end of the pickup. Note the large shroud surrounding the entire base of the screen. This is another added feature that will help oil from sloshing away in those hard corners. I had never seen one like this until now.
From this photo, you can see just how deep the shroud really is. Compared to other stock pickups, this one is more than twice as deep.
Okay, I apologize for the lenghtly download of this photo, but you really need this much in order to see two very important things. First, not the drive shaft is installed in the "correct" position, with the washer on the upper end. This washer sits against the block and helps prevent the shaft from being pulled out of the pump when servicing the distributor. The second thing I would like to point out is the thickness of the shaft. This is the recommended shaft for the high volume pump. It's much thicker than the stock and is hardened. I will definately be putting in that second roll pin to the distributor.
This is the correct view of the pump drive shaft installed into the block. Note the washer is NOT on this end, but instead is actually holding it up so you can see it. From here, we installed the pump and the bottom end was pretty much complete.

All we need now is to get the oil pan blasted and painted, and bolted on.

This is how I primed the pump. I took an old empty anti-freeze jug and cut a big hole in the side. After filling the jug with oil, I placed the newly assembly pump and screen into the oil. turning the shaft by hand, I worked the pump until I got oil out the top. Now the pump has a good coating of oil, and I know it works before bolting it in. Just another precaution that prevents frustration later on. This method works quite well, and by not using a drill at this point, I don't get oil all over myself. : )

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